Nobuo’s New Nest

One of the Valley's top chefs sets up shop across the way from fellow James Beard winner, Chris Bianco

Heritage Square might as well change its name to James Beard West with the news that famed chef, Nobuo Fukuda has officially opened across the way from Pizzeria Bianco. Yes, Nobou at Teeter House opens today after a two-week lunch-only trial run. Housed inside a 100-year-old bungalow in the heart of Downtown Phoenix, this charming-yet-contemporary space marks chef Fukuda’s return to the Valley dining scene after his revolutionary, James Beard Award-winning Sea Saw closed in 2009, reportedly a victim of both the economic downturn and the owner’s overly-ambitious expansion plans.

So what’s on tap at Teeter? Expect the same understated, artful Japanese food that really lets Fukuda’s insistence on farm-fresh ingredients do the talking. However, Fukuda says his new space will also feature more of an emphasis on affordable, rib-sticking and flavorful “street foods,” such as short-rib steamed buns and panko-fried soft shelled crab sandwiches. (Click here to savor this month’s menu.)

And in a nod to both Fukuda’s roots and the Teeter’s previous incarnation as a fine tea house, the restaurant will offer a refined Asian-style tea service as soon as the weather cools. Look for a traditional Chinese ‘gongfu’ tea ceremony that’s all the rage in NYC, Fukuda says. Here, a selection of Chinese and Japanese teas will be presented in specialized pottery, so each can be sipped, smelled and savored just like a formal wine tasting.

Speaking of wine, Fukuda has also crafted a small but potent wine list, which he promises to grow over time. “I still have a passion for wine,” he adds. (Which in reason number 374 why we have a passion for Fukuda’s cooking.) Finally, for those looking to experience Fukuda’s famed (and pricey) omakase, or chef’s choice dinners, it’s still offered for up to four guests at the dining counter (by reservation only).

House Beautiful: 622 E. Adams St., 602-254-0600